Lamu Island

Located off the far north coast of Kenya is Lamu Archipelago, a tropical paradise!  Picturesque towns, long beaches, warm water and traditional Swahili cuisine make this a perfect holiday destination (although the New York Times considers it wildly inconvenient to get to!).  The main island in the archipelago, Lamu, is home to Lamu Town and Sheila Village.  Lamu Town is reputed to be Kenya's oldest living town, established in the 14th century, and is one of the original Swahili settlements.  

Traditional Swahili doors

 

Traditional sailing dhow with views of Shela in the background.

Because Lamu was on the main Arabian trading route, it is predominantly Muslim.  So don’t be surprised if you are woken up at 5am to the call to prayer or have trouble finding a cold beer! 


Muslim woman wearing her burka on the beach.

  There are a few establishments catering to the Western crowd, so it is possible to enjoy a Tusker baridi as you watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean.  FYI - Peponi Hotel in Shela is just the place to do so! 

Enjoying the evening breeze on the deck of Peponi.

Gordy and I flew to Lamu, about an hour flight from Nairobi.  It is possible to drive, but the 10+ hour bus ride and potential for banditry along parts of the route make ground travel unappealing!  Upon arrival at the Lamu airport, you know you’re at the coast as the heat and humidity instantly greet you.  The airport is actually located on Manda Island, across the channel from Lamu Island.  There are no cars on Manda or Lamu, but locals are at the ready to carry your luggage from the airport and down the jetty to the waiting motorboats/dhows (for a few shillings of course).  Once you reach the jetty, you are treated to a spectacular view of Lamu Town across the water.

Lamu Town

Leaving the airport and heading to Lamu.

After crossing the channel, our dhow driver followed the shoreline towards Shela Village, located on the tip of Lamu.

While Lamu Town is busy and gritty, Shela is quiet and clean - and where many of the nicer hotels and guesthouses are located.  Shela Village and Lamu Town are approximately 3km apart and can be walked in about 30 minutes (if the tide is not too high).  Of course, you can opt to travel by donkey if you are so inclined.  Donkeys are numerous on the island, used to transport goods and occasionally people.

At the edge of Shela, the picturesque 12km beach begins.  The sand is soft and the ocean is warm, making it easy to lounge in the water until you've turned into a prune!  Locals wander up and down the beach selling fresh made samosas and cold beverages, so there’s no need to ever leave the beach!

Camels hiding behind the brush.

 Adding to its picturesque nature (and one
 reason why there are no cars on Lamu Island ) are the extremely narrow streets!

Many of the guesthouses in Shale were former homes, and our hotel, Baitil Aman, was formerly a royal home!  Although sparsely decorated, Baitil Aman is quite beautiful. 

Entrance to Baitil Aman (from the inside looking out)

View of Baitil Aman from across the garden.

The dining area and donkey water dishes.

Our room was located on the top floor with a large patio providing excellent views over Shale Town - a perfect place to relax after a taxing day at the beach!

View of interior courtyard from our room.

View of Shela Village from the room.

Enjoying the patio!

One afternoon we walked into Lamu Town (although probably not advisable during the midday heat, especially if you don't like to get sweaty) and explored the old town, a UNESCO world heritage site.  To make up for the loss of bodily fluids, we made several stops for fresh juice and other cold beverages.  One of my favorite things about Kenya is the fresh juice, especially mango juice!

Although many locals offered us sailing trips aboard their traditional dhows, promising freshly caught fish for lunch, great snorkeling and relaxation, we opted to sail ourselves and rented a Laser one afternoon.
 

Dhow with Shela Beach in the background.

Boats anchored off Manda Island (Shela Village across the channel).

After two wonderful days in Shela, we headed over to Manda Island for some serious R&R.  Manda Island truly felt like being on a desert island - with the beach practically to ourselves.
 

Our accommodations - a thatched roof hut right by the beach. 

View from inside the hut.

Because the season was winding down (in fact the hotel was shutting for two months the day after we left), there was only one other guest at the hotel.  What were the chances that this guest (from England) knew of Portland, Maine?  Well, it turns out he is a frequent visitor to Peaks Island!

The dining area at Diamond Beach Village.

All good things must come to an end, and before we knew it, it was time to head back to the hustle and bustle of Nairobi.  If you find yourself in Kenya, I highly recommend a visit to Lamu and the surrounding islands!