Leaving on a night train...for the Indian Ocean

Billed as "one of the world's classic rail journeys" and a "rare colonial gem", I was definitely intrigued by the Nairobi-Mombasa overnight train and thought it would be a great way to start off a short beach vacation near Mombasa.  Yes, I had been warned that the train was unreliable, sometimes arriving a day late (for a journey that only takes 5 hours by car), that the food was sub par and that you won't get to see the beautiful scenery because you're traveling at night.  But, I had also heard that your bound to see spectacular wildlife because the train travels through a national park, the train isn't usually that late in arriving, and the 3-course dinner meal is actually pretty good. 

So on a rainy Friday evening, with our tickets in hand, my roommate, close friend and I were ready to board the train to Mombasa.  Well, just as we were heading out the door to the Nairobi Railway Station, I received a call from the station that the train would be 4 hours late.  Apparently the train coming from Mombasa had our caboose, and it was running behind schedule.  Clue number one that this was not going to be a straightforward journey.

It was dark and dreary at the Nairobi Train Station, with few people waiting to board the one train leaving that night.  What were we thinking? 

We were allowed to board the train at 10 and proceeded straight to the dining car for our 3-course meal. The food wasn't bad, but I couldn't stop thinking about the cockroach running across the floor!

The three of us shared a second class compartment, which was actually quite comfortable.  I even fell asleep despite spotting another cockroach running across the compartment floor as I got into my bunk!  The train finally departed the station shortly after 1 am (now 6 hours late!).

View of the plush 2nd class compartment

In the morning, as the train continued its slow crawl to the coast, we were signaled to the dining car by the breakfast bell.  By the time we reached the dining car, the train had stopped.  Then came the bad news...a cargo train had derailed in front of us and it was going to take the engineers 5 hours to reach the train and at least 2 hours to fix the problem (best care scenario!).  On top of that, we were still a 9-hour train ride from Mombasa!   Luckily we had a way out ... 

Matatus to the rescue!

 

We piled as many people as possible into each matatu and headed down the road to Mombasa.  Shortly after 3pm, we finally arrived at the bustling Mombasa Train Station...

It is no exaggeration to say that station was abandoned.  Since the only train arriving that day was our train, which was now going to be at least 15 hours late, the railway employees had left for the day.  No sense in hanging around an empty station - time to explore Mombasa!  Mombasa is the second largest city and he center of the coastal tourism industry in Kenya.  It is also the gateway to the Kenyan beaches (our eventual destination that weekend).

Mombasa spice market in the old town

The fretwork balconies and ornately carved doors are characteristic of East African architecture.

 It was great to smell the ocean again!

 The Arab/Muslim influence is quite evident in city, as seen in the architecture, narrow streets, markets and people.

 We concluded our day in Mombasa with a cruise on the Tamarind Dhow, feasting on delicious Swahili cuisine.

 

Playing with animals

Did you know that a giraffe's saliva is antiseptic?  At the giraffe center in Nairobi, you can get up close and personal with these long-necked creatures (and their saliva).  In fact, the keepers encourage it!

Luckily, Daisy was a relatively clean kisser! 

 


Addie and I started off the morning watching the baby elephants at the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage.  Each day, for one hour only, the keepers bring out the elephants and let visitors photograph and pet the animals.  I'm not sure I would have been able to tear Addie away otherwise!

One of the many school groups visiting the elephant orphanage that day.

Then, it was off to play with the giraffes!  The giraffe center in Nairobi was established to protect the endangered Rothschild giraffes, which are found only in East Africa. 

A giraffe's tongue is about 18 inches - that's one long tongue!

Addie "feeding" a giraffe.

There are also a few resident warthogs at the giraffe center, and according to the keepers, they get along quite well with the giraffes.

The following day we visited the Karen Blixen Coffee Plantation and enjoyed a tasty lunch at its restaurant. The plantation is located in Karen, a suburb of Nairobi named after the Out of Africa author.

Last stop for the day - nyama choma!  No visit to Kenya is complete without nyama choma!   

I think we'll take one full goat...

16,355 Feet

One of my dearest friends arrived in Nairobi last Thursday night, and we wasted no time starting our Kenyan adventure.  I should probably confess that I didn't allow her much time to acclimate, but we were running up against the rainy season - and a hike up Mt. Kenya needed to happen stat!  Saturday morning we set out with three other friends from Nairobi, excited and nervous about the next four days.  For those of you who don't know much about Mt. Kenya, it's the second highest peak in Africa but is often overlooked because the highest peak in Africa, Kilimanjaro, is located just across the Tanzanian border.  Many people will tell you that Mt. Kenya is a more picturesque and difficult climb.  I've never hiked Kilimanjaro, but I can certainly tell you that Mt. Kenya is extremely picturesque and difficult!  Within 2 1/2 days of climbing, you reach over 16,000 feet!

We of course stopped for the obligatory equator shot!

After arriving in Nanyuki, the largest town near the base of Mt. Kenya and where many people spend a day acclimating, we met our guide, Daniel.  Daniel gave us a quick briefing and then did some final preparations while we ate one last pre-hike meal.  Once we had the crew with us (5 porters, a cook and Daniel), we continued on to the base of Mt. Kenya at the start of the Sirimon route.

The clouds were looking foreboding, but a few light showers quickly passed as we made the 10km hike up to the first camp.


The hiking crew with Harlan, our amazing cook!



We reached Old Moses Camp before dark and had a chance to catch a few glimpses of the following day's hike.  We were already at 10,830 feet.

There were several other groups making the ascent and staying in the camp.

The "dining room"

 

The bunk room

Harlan feed us a wonderful dinner of fish with a garlic vegetable sauce, roasted potatoes and pumpkin soup.  Each meal always included something warm - whether it was crepes, french toast, porridge and/or fried eggs for breakfast, soup/stew for lunch, and fish, chicken curry or spaghetti (with a soup appetizer) for dinner.  Harlan can cook for me any day or night!  Fresh fruit was also provided at every meal - delicious pineapple, banana, passion fruit, mango and tree tomato.  It certainly didn't feel like we were roughing it (at least in the food department!).

Energized and ready for the day's big hike - 16 km.



The peaks in the distance...our destination for the following morning.



The peak on the left - Point Lenana - the highest point one can reach without technical climbing gear - and our goal!

The vegetation above tree line was really unique, several varieties of which are only found on Mt. Kenya...

like the lobelias,











and the giant groundsels.

Our destination for the day - just another 4-5 hours up the valley and around a few bends.

Relaxing before lunch.

 The sights were just spectacular!  Our guide told us that the beginning of Jurassic Park was filmed here, and the Lion King scenery was based on the Mt. Kenya landscape (I need to watch those movies again!).

 We arrived at camp #2 - Shipton's Camp - around 4pm.  After a snack of tea and popcorn and biscuits, we explored the area.  At 13,800 feet, you can certainly feel the altitude!  Many hikers take Acetazolamide (Diamox) to prevent altitude sickness.  I'm a believer!  The one person in our group who didn't take it wasn't able to make the final ascent.

 View of the peaks from Shipton's camp.

After a filling spaghetti dinner by Harlan, it was off to bed.  Wake up time - 2am!  I thought the early wake up call was so that we could reach the summit in time for sunrise.  But, I was told that main reason is so that hikers won't be able to see how challenging the hike is!



Sleeping at 13,800 feet isn't easy - it's cold and you definitely notice the shortage of oxygen.  I was actually glad when 2am came around and I could get out of bed!  We ate a quick breakfast of biscuits and tea then put on all of our warm clothes (for me, that included three jackets!), headlamps, gloves, and hats, and set out in the darkness. 

 Here comes the sun!!

Our legs were exhausted and we were out of breath, but we had made it to the top!

There was even a Sugarloaf sticker at the peak!

 



The largest of the rapidly shrinking glaciers on Mt. Kenya.  It is estimated that within 30 years there will be no more glaciers on Mt. Kenya - and to think that just 7 years ago you couldn't hike the mountain without crampons. 


 

Happy to be on the way down!



 When we reached the next hut - Mackinders - Harlan prepared a scrumptious breakfast of porridge (really very good), french toast, potato pancakes, sausages, toast and fruit.  Yum!!

After a 13-hour day of hiking (with a few breaks), we reached our third and final camp. We started the day at 13,800 feet, reached a maximum altitude of 16,355 feet before heading back down and calling it a night at 10,000 feet.

 We were thrilled with the clear blue sky as we summited and started to make our way down.  But the weather held a surprise for us - a large hail storm!   Luckily the sun came out at as we approached camp, and the fire in the cabin helped to dry us out

We all slept like babies after our trek up the second highest peak in Africa!

Leaving camp #3, just a few more hours to the finish line!

Success! Thanks Daniel, Harlan and the gang for an amazing experience!